1. Field of the Invention
The invention relates to a tool for setting a gemstone on a jewel's head; in particular, it concerns a tool for mounting a solitaire stone in the head of a ring or earring.
2. Description of the Prior Art
The art of mounting gemstones on rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces and pendants is ancient. In so doing, it is always important to minimize the points of contact between the stone and the carrying structure while producing a secure grip on the stone, so as to enhance the visibility of the ornament while ensuring its safety. Accordingly, different approaches have been followed to securely fasten the gemstone to the piece of jewelry to which it is mounted, ranging from clasping the stone with metallic clamps to attaching it by means of an adhesive.
The task requires handling two generally small structures, the stone on one hand and the setting head on the other hand, and attaching one to the other with minimal contact and stress being imposed on the gem or the head in order to avoid damage to either component. In the case of solitaires, the stone is typically mounted on a setting head with multiple prongs that are rigidly clamped around the stone. As illustrated in FIG. 1 for an earring, a round setting head 10 is first prepared by a seat forming, burring tool 12 that is lowered into the head to machine it and provide a seat conforming to the shape and size of the stone. The gem is then lowered into the seat portion 20 of the head and the prongs 14 are clamped around the gem to secure it in place. Thus, the two components must be handled firmly and with precision during the mounting process. Earring heads include a post 16 for connection with a clasp 18. Other heads are attached by solder or otherwise to the intended support structure (such as a ring, pendant, etc.).
As one skilled in the art would know, the head shown in FIG. 1 is normally referred to as a round head and consists of a rounded body that may have an open base or a closed base with a post, as seen in the figure. The prongs 14, typically four or six, are integral with the body of the head. Another type of head 10', referred to as a solitaire head, is shown in FIG. 1A. In this head embodiment, which can also be with or without post, the prongs 14 (again typically four or six, as seen in the figure) are individual structures converging to a lower support post 19 and an upper seat portion 20' defined by the inner surfaces of the prongs. In the solitaire-head embodiment 10' each pair of prongs 14 forms a recess 21 running from the seat portion 20' to the support peg 19.
Typically, jewelers hold the head 10 (with or without the post 16) with a tool that permits the burring operation and the subsequent attachment of the stone to the head by bending the prongs 14 around it. U.S. Pat. No. 1,546,814, No. 1,757,120, No. 2,157,789, No. 3,333,321, No. 3,435,513, No. 5,188,679, No. 5,285,659 and No. 5,339,655 describe various machines for carrying out the necessary steps and facilitating the process of holding the head firmly while mounting the stone to it. None of them provides a simple tool that makes it possible for a jeweler to simply hold the head firmly and steadily with one hand while operating on it with the other. This invention is directed to providing such a tool.